
Atyrau
Atyrau, a bustling city less than 15km from the Caspian Sea’s north coast, sits amid the stark beauty of the Caspian Lowland. Surrounded by sandy
Kapamsay Canyon is a few kilometres south-west of Shakpak Ata. When approaching it from afar, you’ll see the white-sided walls of the chasm peeking up above the vegetated plateau. It’s 4km long, up to 70m deep, and the canyon floor is strewn with car-sized boulders offering plenty of shelter from the sun. There are similar-sized canyons either side of Kapamsay: Kokbulaksay, 7km to the west; and Shakpaktysay, 4.5km to the east, which is near Shakpak Ata.
In one corner of the canyon, there’s a mini oasis tucked away in a grotto and surrounded by a mulberry tree grove. Take care if you’re exploring harder-to-reach rock niches and caves, as eagles nest in the area. According to archaeologists, New Stone Age communities mined Kapamsay’s rock for manufacturing stone tools.
Kapamsay Canyon (Qapamsai Kanony/Каньон Капамсай): 44.4093, 51.0785
Shakpaktysay Canyon (Şaqpaqtysai Kanony/Каньон Шакпактысай): 44.4069, 51.1384
Kokbulaksay Canyon (Kökbūlaqsai Kanony/Каньон Кокбулаксай): 44.4406, 51.0009
1:200k Soviet map of the Tub-Karagan Peninsula’s canyons, identified by the knotted contour lines in the top-left quarter.
Short video of Kapamsay Canyon.
Natalia Pervukhina’s illustrated trip report from an extensive drive around the Mangystau Region, which includes photos of Shakpaktysay Canyon.

Atyrau, a bustling city less than 15km from the Caspian Sea’s north coast, sits amid the stark beauty of the Caspian Lowland. Surrounded by sandy

Ten kilometres off the north coast of the Tub-Karagan Peninsula is the Tyuleniy Archipelago. Tyulen means ‘seal’ in Russian. The archipelago comprises five named islands.

Fifteen kilometres north-west of Shetpe town is Ayrakty-Shomanai, or as 19th-century Ukrainian artist-poet Taras Shevchenko preferred to call it during his stay in Mangystau, ‘The