Boszhira
Boszhira is Central Asia’s rival to the USA’s Monument Valley National Park, with the bonus of no crowds. Packed into a 7km x 7km area
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According to G. N. Amelichev’s A Brief History of Cave Exploration in the USSR and Russia, there are over 50 caves in the Ustyurt region. Here’s our overview of three of the best-known ones, all of which are reachable within a one- or two-day drive from Aktau.
Forty-five kilometres south-east of the Karynzharyk Depression’s ‘Three Brothers’ peaks is Balayuk Cave. The cave’s entrance is on the east side of a 15m x 50m sinkhole. It’s over 100m in length and 120m deep, and has three caverns connected by a series of rubble-strewn slopes. The farthest point of the cave, which is less than an hour from the entrance, has a 20-metre-long lake nestled in a small amphitheatre. Along with torches – bring spares – a 60m rope is recommended for negotiating steeper sections.
Eight kilometres north-east of Balayuk is Utebay Cave. There are two separate caverns at either end of the 30m x 60m sink hole, which are accessed via large tunnels. Although the tunnel lengths are short – less than 30m – there are sections as spacey as a highway tunnel, so they’re impressive to look at. Keep an eye out for any recent-looking rock fall, as Utebay’s cliffs are fragile. Flags and ribbons tied to metal pegs mark dangerous sections. If you spot any missing or looking tatty, try to replace them so future visitors know where to avoid.
Sixteen kilometres north of Mount Karamaya and the Karynzharyk Depression is Karagan-Bosagas Cave, also known as Zheroyyk. Its entrance is 10m wide and on the slopes of Mount Baskaragan. A series of 6- to 10-metre-high corridors lead to a large grotto at a depth of 160m.
The nearest settlement to the cave is Ak-Kuduk settlement, over 65km to the south-west. In the Bosagas Tract, which links the cave with the settlement, is a monument to Baluaniyaz (d. 1856), who was a Kazakh warrior from the Adai tribe that fought in battles against the Russian Empire and Khanate of Khiva. The monument to him stands in the place of his – and his fellow warriors – final and fatal battle with Khiva.
If you’re heading to any of these caves independently, make sure you’re self-sufficient and carry extra fuel as they’re at least half-a-day’s walk from the nearest settlement. Ideally, travel with two or more cars, in case of breakdown. Also, monitor your route and make sure you don’t stray accidentally into Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan, or plummet into one of the sinkholes! Bring a satellite phone if you have one, as there’s virtually no phone reception in the Ustyurt.
The road to Balayuk, Utebay and Karagan-Bosagas pass through the Ustyurt State Nature Reserve, so you’ll need to apply for permission prior to departure. For details on fees and how to apply, visit the Ustyurt reserve’s website.
Boszhira is Central Asia’s rival to the USA’s Monument Valley National Park, with the bonus of no crowds. Packed into a 7km x 7km area
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