Boszhira

Kazakhstan, Ustyurt, Western Kazakhstan

Boszhira is Central Asia’s rival to the USA’s Monument Valley National Park, with the bonus of no crowds. Packed into a 7km x 7km area are several distinct red sandstone rock formations set atop waterworn chalk slabs. The most striking are the Azu Tisteri rock spires, meaning ‘fang teeth’ in Kazakh. Without a doubt, these twin peaks are the Ustyurt’s most iconic and photographed spot. Extending north from Azu Tisteri is the table-top ridge of Ulken Keme, and Borly Tau, which is surrounded by impenetrable cliffs.

Ushkir Tau, a 1.5-kilometre-long ridge, marks Boszhira’s southernmost point and has sheer drops on either side. Ten kilometres south of Ushkir Tau is Karashek, a salt marsh frequently seen in the background of Boszhira photographs, but rarely visited. Aside from venturing down to the valley floor, the best place to view Boszhira is from the Western Chink Ustyurt, which towers a couple of hundred metres above the main peaks.

There are five popular viewpoints along the chink where you can take in the entirety of Boszhira and glimpse other mountains, such as Shoky Tau. Keep an eye out for ancient hunting traps called ‘desert kites’. Hundreds dot the cliff edge, some of which are up to 2,000 years old, and were used for hunting saiga, goitered gazelle, and other ungulates.

Coordinates:

Karashek Salt Marsh (Sor Qaraşek/Сор Карашек): 43.3017, 54.1268
Borly Tau (Borli Tauy/Гора Борли): 43.4290, 54.0776
Shoky Tau (Şoki Tauy/Гора Шоки): 43.4376, 54.0438
Bokty Mountain (Bokti Tauy/Гора Бокти): 43.4226, 53.7998
North and South Azu Tisteri (Soltüstık jäne Oñtüstık Azu Tısterı/Северный и Южный Азу Тистери): 43.4168, 54.0725
Ushkir Tau (Üşkır Tauy/Гора Ушкир): 43.4013, 54.0982
Ulken Keme (Улькен Кеме): 43.4237, 54.0708

Resources:

1:200k Soviet map of Boszhira, shown in the bottom-left corner and west of spot height “287”.
1:500k Soviet map of Karashek, Boszhira and the Karynzharyk Depression. Karashek is the blue lake on the far left of the map and the chain of spot heights north of it is Boszhira. A small blue lake marks the northern end of Karynzharyk.
French research project Globalkite’s interactive map showing the location of Eurasia’s desert kites.